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Tuesday 29 July 2008

surrounded by ragged-tooth sharks

We thought our submarines emotions were worn-out, that we experienced everything during our Sodwana Bay stay, a few days before. We believed it was necessary to have a change of air before dipping again the head into the water. Live a little bit with the memories and marvel at new horizons, leave the blue of the ocean for the rock of the mountain or the ochre of the savannah. We were wrong.
that takes place at Umkomass. Off this submarine-activities-oriented village, the Aliwal shoal reef. First appointment at « cathedral », a grotto whose roof collapsed and opened a natural light shaft. An azure cone which lights the most beautiful submarine sequence I've seen so far. The knees on the sandy bottom, the elbows leant on a rock. 25m deep, time isn't important any longer so much the instant is unfathomable. Shadows swirl around a marine-hued watercolour. Familiar silhouettes, so appalling and so appealing. The danger suddenly becomes insignificant. Some shapes approach, exposing their predator eyes and ill-fitted teeth.
meeting with a ragged-tooth shark.
its partners carry on wheeling, twirling. 50, 80 or 100, the figure doesn't much matter. The noise of my regulator interrupts the world of the silence and the stealth glide of these sumptuous creatures. I I soar, nitrogen- and drug-addicted, intoxicated by this fleeting heaven. However, we must take off this stone and slowly go up along the reef. My eyes don't want to look away any more. The spirit still drifts in front of the cave to continue the dream. In a continuous loop, I play again the short video stolen from the aquatic world and I plunge back into the picture of « cathedral ». I shiver again... I feel like going back so much...


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We put the head into the water again for a less-fierce and more-colourful dive. The spirit still clung to the inhabitants of « cathedral ».

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To cease associating the South-African East coast with the coral reef, we dive on the Produce wreck. Crumpled metal and concretion-covered pipes define the outlines of this old ship that is lying down, 30 meters deep. A great wreck where the natives are called Brindle bass, a grouper which can weigh 400+ kilos. In the dark corners of the superstructures, we observe some motionless specimens. We go a little bit too near and the imposing mass gets moving. Close harmony with the wonderful environment of Aliwal Shoal. And for those who haven't been tempted or convinced by the submarine universe, a last series of snapshots which match these words.

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Thursday 10 July 2008

Flying over the Okavango delta

To perfect our visit of the Okavango area and fill in this urge of contemplating the animals from above, we book an one-hour flight over the delta. An interesting way to understand this aquatic maze which snakes through the plain. A special moment with elephants and hippopotamuses.

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Sunday 22 June 2008

The surrealist painting of the Sossusvlei dunes


Click on the pictures (including the panoramic views) to enlarge them.

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Namibian tracks and natural curiosities meet. The road unfolds and the uncertain gravel spurts under the weight of the vehicle. A hazard roadsign indicates the skid risks and with good reason... First fright of the trip with an off-the-track escapade. The high, yellowish, sunburnt grass bends to receive us. Everyone is safe, so is the car. We arrive in a whole part at Sesriem, entrance point for the Sossusvlei dunes.

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The sun sets and we cover the 4.5km standing between us and the Sesriem canyon, a little trench within the stone laying down a sandy bed. Soon, the rock outline fades and the dusk floods the small canyon with obscurity. We drive back to set up the tent at the campsite of the NWR-ran park – NWR is a national company that manages most of the national parks. And we notice the Namibian government opted for a luxury tourism since the slightest night in a lodge is between 100 and 150 euros per person and the campsite comes to 25 euros per person but that is the only way if we wish marvelling at a sunrise over the red sanddunes of this part of the Namib desert. The gate of the park stays close for the « non-residents » until 6h45, a too late time to cover the 60 kilometers from the dunes before the sun starts rising.

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Wake up at 5 am, fast breakfast, we put on shorts, a tee-shirt, a polar jacket and we leave for one of the most scenic spot in Namibia, the giant dunes of Sossuvlei. The ash dark veil of the night hardly dispels we begin climbing the dune number 45. A pilling up of sand we struggle up so much our feet sink in. But what a reward at the top! Day after day, the sun rises and sets amidst total indifference. There's however sunrises which engraves on the memory forever. Here is one of them. The first rays spurt from behind the rock that blocks the horizon. From the top of our dune we contemplate the other sand-made blazing colossuses. The morning wind sweeps the silica atoms that build these huge natural walls. Behind the unpronounceable name of Sossusvlei, hide the greatest sandunes in the world, ours is about 200 meters high while others can rise beyond the 300m.
We take off our shoes to feel the warm sand giving way under our feet. Our toes split up the ridge of the sand mountain and our eyes leap from a dune to another one without weariness, the cameras crackle and the emotion overwhelms us. Meeting between the African nature and the astral light for a breathtaking chromatic patchwork.

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We keep on visiting the site and park the car at the end of the road. We yomp through a few dunes to reach Deadvlei. In the past, trees lived here but the aridity of the desert decided differently. The immortalized scene looks unreal. Trunks set in the white clay of a dried lake. It's probably in this strange place Salvador Dali drew his surrealist inspiration. We step on the dry earth while branches seems to writhe in pain in the scorching heat. 900 years the time froze the destiny of these trees. And a few centuries people marvel at. The surrounding red sand seems to respect this shrine. And the millions of particles gather together at the shore of the white expanse. The emotion still gnaws us.

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Thus, an ordinary day in Namibia ends but an extraordinary one for the travelers we are.

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